FAQ

We aim to process all our orders within 1-2 working days.

We ship to New Zealand and Australia.

Please contact our customer service team and they are more than happy to help. The best way to reach us is by filling out our contact form here

Sorry we don't. We only operate as an online store. If you wish to view any of our products you can order samples here.

Sorry we don't have any click & collect option. Our warehouse is located in Tauranga and not suitable for pick ups.

You can find out more about our return policy here

You can find out more information about our shipping costs here.

A lightweight premium peel and stick tile in 3D design that can be applied on walls and splash backs. It can even go on top of existing tiles. (Please note that our XL and Mega range can not be applied over existing tiles.) It's easy to apply and no special tools are required. Ones applied the tiles look strikingly close to ceramic tiles. 

The tiles are suitable for kitchen, bathroom, laundry room and motorhome splash backs.

Recommended surfaces include:
-smooth ceramic tiles (this excludes the XL & Mega range)
-smooth glass tiles
-wall panel (acrylic)
-wall linoleum
-mirror
-wallpaper (untextured) 
-painted gib board (after 21-day curing time for fresh paint)

Not recommended surfaces:
-stucco wall
-stone wall
-unfinished wall (gib or plaster)
-unpainted plywood
-porous wood
-relief ceramic tiles
-textured wallpaper
-inside a shower
-floors
-bench tops
-ceilings
-brick wall

1. CLEANING: Wash the surface with a powerful grease-remover such as sugar soap. Make sure you allow enough time for the surface to dry properly.
2. GUIDELINE: using a level or chalk line, trace a guideline to ensure perfect alignment using a tile sheet to mark the height of your guideline on the lowest side of the bench top.
3. MEASURING & CUTTING: use a utility knife and a metal ruler to trim and shape your tiles around electrical outlets or other irregularities. Measure and mark your tiles and then lay it on a cutting mat to cut off the unwanted portion.
4. REMOVE THE TABS OF THE FIRST TILE: For all jagged edge models, you must cut off the overlapping tabs of the first sheet to get a straight edge to begin the installation. This will allow you to start in a corner, against a cabinet or to get straight edge ending. 
5. PEEL: Fold back half of the protective paper in the back without touching the adhesive portion with your fingers. We strongly recommend you wash your hands before you start the installation to ensure no dust particles or greasy residue are transferred to the adhesive.
6. ALIGN & STICK: Now align the adhesive portion with your guideline and apply a light pressure. This will allow you to validate the positioning of your tiles. Once you are satisfied with its placement and alignment, you may remove the rest of the protective paper and apply a firm pressure across the entire surface.
7. OVERLAPPING: Once you've successfully installed the first sheet of tiles, you may continue the process making sure you overlap all the grout lines as you go. This will result in a continous and even layout of the entire project.

Watch this short video for more details about the tiles and how to install them.

It's crucial to make sure that the surface is correctly prepared for optimal adhesion and durability. The surface needs to be clean from dust and grease. Make sure that you use a powerful grease remover (e.g. sugar soap) that is recommended for your surface. Let the surface dry completely before application. 
You may want to consider scrubbing painted surfaces with a high grit sandpaper. This will help removing the oily layer and the tiles will stick better to the surface.

The ambient temperature must be between 18°C and 35°C and the self-adhesive tiles should be room temperature. 

Yes you can order samples here.

No, it's not recommended as they cannot adhere properly. If it's an "orange peel" painted surface, make sure you sand it first so it's smooth. Then apply a primer and allow a minimum of 72 hours for it to dry. Clean the surface with a degreaser like sugar soap before applying the tiles. 

Each sheet varies in size depending on model. They are all 0.18cm thick. Please refer to each model for their individual dimensions. There are no edge pieces. You will need to cut the first and last sheet to make a straight edge. The overlapping is reduced by approximately 10% depending on design. 

Yes they can be removed with little to no damage depending on the surface they've been applied to. Heat them with a hairdryer and pull carefully. Remove any excess glue with warm soapy water or methylated spirits. 

Yes they are slightly bendable and can be used for curved wall areas (e.g. in buses, caravans, camper vans)

Yes the surface of the tiles are waterproof.

Yes they can be used for the splash back or walls in the bathroom and are humidity and water resistant. Let the tiles bond 48h with the surface before exposing them to humidity and water. They are not recommended in the shower.

It's not recommended to use them in the shower. The surface of the tiles are waterproof, but overlapping parts can be weakened in places where there is a lot of water.

Yes the tiles are heat resistant to the heat of a stove once applied and have completely bonded with the surface. This generally takes 48 hours.  It is recommended to prevent direct exposure to an open flame by installing our Smart Panel. 

Yes the tiles are heat resistant once applied. Allow sufficient time for the tiles to bond with the surface before use - generally 48 hours. They are not easily damaged by hot oil. If installed behind a gas range without a protective rear panel, allow a length of 20cm above the surface to prevent the tiles from coming in contact with open flame. We recommend to use our Smart Panel to protect from direct exposure of open flames. For bench top appliances like toasters, mini ovens and similar make sure to keep a minimum distance of 6cm between the tiles and the appliance. Please note that the tiles needs to be out of reach for direct steam (e.g. from the oven) as they are not steam resistant. Always refer to your stove top installation manual regarding correct safety clearance. 

No they are not. Do not apply Smart Tiles so that they are in direct reach of steam (e.g. from an oven). 

Yes some of our tiles can be used on existing ceramic tiles. The smaller the Smart Tiles the less any imperfections like grout lines etc will shine through. The XL and Mega range are not suitable to cover existing ceramic tiles with. If you decide to do so make sure that you cover up the grout lines first to a smooth and sleek surface with a pale colour. 

There are some key factors to a successful installation
1. Go slowly and don't rush the process
2. Measure twice and cut once. If unsure cut off less than you think and then just cut off small pieces at the time
3. Create a straight line and make sure to apply the first tile completely straight. Only firmly press down on the tile when you are completely satisfied with the position of the tile
4. Cover the entire grout line when overlapping the tiles. This is particularly important when applying the hexagon design and other smaller tiles with many grout lines. 

Yes they will never yellow or crack and keep their look in the long term

You don't need any special tiling tools but the installation will be easier with the following:
-grease-remover
-pen for marking
-ruler / plain and a level for cutting and marking a straight line
-scissors
-craft knife
-cutting board 

Calculate the surface you need to cover. This is easiest done by splitting each surface into sections as per the picture below. You will find that our product listing says how much each pack will cover. We recommend to add a minimum of 10% extra for wastage. Larger tiles often require more wastage.

We sell the small and medium tiles as 4-pack. Our XL and Mega range are sold as 2-packs. 

To avoid disappointment of an unfinished project we strongly recommend that you calculate the amount of tiles you need for your entire project and order enough tiles for the whole surface. We try as best as we can to always keep sufficient tiles in stock. However, some of the designs from our manufacturer may be limited editions or end of line and therefore we may not always be able to restock. 

Wipe your tiles with a sponge to restore the shine of them. Use a mild non-abrasive household cleaning product like a dish soap or glass cleaner. It's important to note that some spices with high density pigment colour, such as turmeric, can stain the tile permanently. 

The subway tiles include 18 bricks ( 7.62 x 3.81cm) on one sheet and they are symmetrical stacked. The metro tiles include 8 bricks (10.16cm x 5.08cm) on one sheet and are staggered differently. 

Smart Tiles can be installed on a surface up to 49°C. Make sure it's not in contact with a heat source or an open flame.

For overlapping models, join two Smart Tiles at the corner. For straight models position the grout line directly on the corner. This means you don't apply any unnecessary pressure on the Gel-O.

Measure the outlet and cut the tile to size. Use a craft knife when you cut. 

Fill any empty sections between panels with plaster and sand it to a smooth finish. Make sure you cover the entire surface with a primer and let it dry for a minimum of 72 hours. If paint is used, you will need to wait for a minimum of 21 days to make sure it's completely dry. 

Sand it to a smooth finish. Make sure you cover the entire surface with a primer and let it dry for a minimum of 72 hours. If paint is used, you will need to wait for a minimum of 21 days to make sure it's completely dry. 

Use a level and draw a horizontal line on the wall of the hight of the first row of tiles. The glue takes a little while to kick in so the tiles are easy to reposition during application if needed, if firm pressure has not already been applied. 

Yes for extra protection it can be advantageous to use a caulk or silicone. 

Smart Tiles are certified NFPA (ASTM E84) and IBC Class B.

Smart Tiles have been tested for volatile organic compounds and aldehydes (VOCs) under ISO 16000 which classifies emission rate from A+ to C (A+ indicating a very low level of emissions and C a high level of emissions). Smart Tiles have been certified as A+ meaning very low level of emissions.

Smart Tiles are made of a thick moulded plastic (epoxy). They have a 3D gel effect and a self-adhesive back. 

Smart Tiles are manufactured in Canada.

If you have used a primer on your wall, make sure that you allow enough time for it to cure before applying the tiles. The curing time for a primer is normally around 72 hours. A primer will make untreated surfaces like plywood, plaster and gib more uniform. Most primers are fine but don't use Zinsser as some chemical components may effect the adherence of the tiles. 
If you decide to paint your wall you will need to prime it first. Wait at least 21 days until you apply the tiles to allow enough time for the paint to dry completely. Auroa  by Benjamin Moore is the only known paint to avoid that may harm the adherence of the tiles. 

Smart Tiles® will stick on your walls for as long as you wish them to. That's our guarantee! We offer replacement of defective Smart Tiles following file investigation and depending on certain conditions. Smart Tiles® also guarantee the products for a period of thirty (30) days starting from the date of purchase and applies only to design or manufacture defects, excluding any hue or colour change and labour expenses. For the warranty to be valid, the manufacturer installation recommendations must be followed.

-Wait a period of three weeks before affixing Smart Tiles on a freshly painted wall to allow the paint to penetrate and dry thoroughly.
-The surface must be smooth and undamaged.
-The surface must be clean and dry.
-You should clean the surface with a degreaser such as sugar soap.
-During installation, the ambient temperature must be at least 18°C and should not exceed 35°C.
-Smart Tiles should not be exposed to direct steam, or be in direct contact with a heat source and should not be submerged in water (do not install in the shower).
-To install behind a gas range without a protective rear panel, allow a height of 20 centimetres above the surface to prevent the tiles from coming in contact with open flame and we recommend to install our Smart Panel. If there is a wall to the right or left side of the range, Smart Tiles must be installed at least six centimetres away.
-Keep a distance of at least six centimetres between an oven toaster grill and wall covered with Smart Tiles.
-If you decide to remove the Smart Tiles once they have been firmly applied, they cannot be reused.
-Smart Tiles are not designed to cover floors, countertops or work surfaces, or to serve as a trivet.
-For maintenance, you should only use a mild non-abrasive product.

Sorry we don't. We import standard designs straight from the manufacturer and can not create custom designs. However our manufacturer has a wide variety of designs so if you can't find a particular style or colour on our website there is still a great chance that we can source it for you.

Sorry we can't split any packs of tiles. Our warehouse is not clean enough to store half packs. 

Sorry all our samples are already cut to size. Please note that they are not suitable to use as a replacement for the tiles. The samples are hand cut and there is no guarantee for straight edges.

-craft mat
-metal edge ruler
-tape measure
-craft knife
-pen

You can find some of these tools here.

1. Place the floor tiles in the room at least 48h before application at room temperature ( 20-22°C)
2. Fix any cracks or chips in existing tiles before you start 
3. Clean the floor thoroughly removing any dirt or grease
4. Dry the floor
5. Remove the backing paper
6. Apply the tiles by pressing it down firmly with your hands. Press in the middle first and then the edges. Optional: Use an unused paint roller for a firmer pressing. Make sure that edges are butted together
7. The tiles can be cut to size. Mark the back with a pen and then score your mark with a craft knife
8. Bend to snap the score
9. Allow 24h for the adhesive to bond

This video show how to apply self-adhesive floor tiles

- Wait 5 days before cleaning the Classic Floor Tiles for the first time
- Clean the tiles regularly. They can be damp-wiped with a light detergent 
- Vacuum cleaners and brooms are fine to use
- Take care with sharp objects
- Avoid standing moisture

- (floating) screed
- Glued PVC floor
- Polished concrete
- Smooth, jointless wooden floor (Caution: should be degreased and neutralised with water)
- Ceramic tiles (Caution: the ceramic tiles should have a smooth surface and the joints should not be wider than 3mm)

- Floating floors (Laminate, Click Vinyl, Parquet)
- Linoleum
- Smooth surfaces (e.g. carpets)
- Floors with heating
- Outside
- Floors exposed to high temperature or permanent direct sunlight
- Floors exposed to permanent moisture
- Dirty and dusty floors

One reason is that linoleum is often being installed without glue on the underground. If the linoleum is then moving slightly the tiles will be moving as well and the edges can come up and the tiles could not stick anymore.

Second reason is that it could come to a chemical reaction between the linoleum and the tiles.This could be avoided by using a blocking foil.

No, we only recommend the application on the floor. The glue is not strong enough. Moreover, other criteria for the wall application have to be fulfilled which they aren't tested for.

No they can't. The edges are butt joined and not overlapped or sealed. If applied in a shower, water will eventually find its way underneath the tiles. 

The subfloor should be free of dirt, dust, soiling, grease, oil, old glue and wax. Unevennesses of more than 0,5mm, tile joints wider than 3mm, as well as any cracks or holes have to be filled.

Yes

- Lift up the Classic Floor Tiles with a cutter knife or a scraper
- Remove the Classic Floor Tiles carefully
- If it´s difficult to lift up the Classic Floor Tiles you can warm them up with a hair dryer
- Glue residues can be removed with a scraper

Please note that due to the nature of the material, it is unavoidable that after some time, the adhesive force and the dimensional stability will be reduced (mainly due to solar radiation and temperature fluctuations).

This depends on the subfloor. 

Yes, but they can be removed.

- Indoor
- Room with limited level of use
- Room temperature before, during and after applying the Classic Floor Tiles is at 20° - 22°C
- Room/ floor is not exposed to high temperatures / heat (No oven, conservatory, floor heating, big windows/ only low light radiation)
-No area where standing moisture could occur 

Virgin PVC

Yes, the floor tiles fulfil all criteria of the CE Label.

No, they do not contain any hazardous goods and have low emission values (VOC Label A+).

No. However most of the designs are textured which makes them less slippery. 

We do not recommend applying the floor tiles on subfloors with floor heating because this influences the adhesion of the glue. Moreover it is possible that the floor tiles shrink.

The glue is water-resistant. But in general standing moisture has to be avoided. Also, please damp-wipe the floor only.

If the floor tiles are not exposed to permanent sun light they won´t change their colour. In case of permanent exposure to sun light a change in colour is possible.

The floor tiles can be applied easily. If a floor tile is damaged it can be removed and replaced by a new floor tile. Due to the self-adhesive backside no additional glue is necessary. As they have a small size they can be transported very easily. 

If the floor tiles are exposed to high temperature they can change their size. Moreover, it is possible that the glue loses its strength.

Yes, an acclimatisation of 48 hours at room temperature (20-22°C) is recommended.

You will need scissors, pen, tape measure, plain / ruler and glue and a brush to apply the glue with

The wallpaper is designed to be used as a splash back in the kitchen, bathroom or laundry or as a feature wall. It can be applied to most flat wall surfaces as long as the adhesive / paste instructions are followed. If you are unsure if it's suitable for your intended surface, please get in contact. 

The surface must be smooth, firm, dry and free from cracks and holes. Large uneven areas must first be filled with a suitable filler.

The wallpaper are best cut with scissors. Just mark with a pen on the backside and cut.

1. Make sure that the surface of your wall is smooth, solid, dry and clean from grease and dust.
2. Measure the surface and cut the first strip to the right size 
3. For non-absorbent surfaces such as oil or lacquer coatings, use common dispersion adhesive (e.g. Ceramics adhesive from our online store). Apply the adhesive to the back of the roll. Alternatively moisten the back of the wallpaper with water and let it soak for 10min. Apply the adhesive straight to the wall that you wish to cover with wallpaper. Fill up any grout lines with adhesive (if you cover tiles).
4. For absorbent surfaces such as concrete or drywall, use common wallpaper adhesive for heavy wallpaper (for example Metylan spezial). Apply the adhesive to the back of the roll, fold, and let soak for approximately 10 minutes.
5. Apply the first strip, starting at the top, and ensure vertical alignment. Cut the next strip to ensure the pattern repeat is taken into consideration. Place it next to the previous strip after applying adhesive. The strips should be butt joined so that they are positioned edge to edge with out overlap. Cut the wallpaper in the corner and start with a new piece on the other wall. This prevents the wallpaper from coming loose in the corners.
6. In rooms which are subject to moisture, it is essential to ensure that all edges and joins are sealed with PVC cold welding paste (for PVC wall coverings). This prevents moisture from penetrating underneath the wall covering. When finished, ensure that the room is well ventilated!

Attention: Always follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions!

Attention: Immediately remove any spots of adhesive with clean water!

This video shows how to apply Ceramics Wallpaper.

Spray the wall with water. If the water drips off the wall then the surface is non-absorbent and our Ceramics glue can be used. If the wall gets dark then the surface is absorbent and wallpaper adhesive for heavy wallpaper should be used. 

Yes. We recommend to order samples first so that you can view the design and colour in real life. You can find them here.

The Ceramics wallpaper is wider than a standard wallpaper. They are sold in 67.5cm x 4m and 67.5cm x 20m. Please note that some designs are only available in one of the sizes

Yes they can. The grout lines can be covered with adhesive and no extra filler is required

Yes a strip can be removed and repositioned as long as the paste or adhesive has not fully set. 

The strips should be butt joined so that they end up edge to edge. There is no need to overlap (like ordinary wallpaper installation). Some designs require extra attention to the pattern repeat

The thickness is 0.60 - 0.90mm depending on design

Yes it's suitable for wet areas when sealed

Yes as long as all the joins are properly sealed. Please be careful with any hygien products with strong pigment (e.g. purple schampoo) that may stain the wallpaper. If unsure, we recommend that you order sample first and put them to the test

Use a PVC cold welding paste (for PVC wall coverings)

Yes they can but avoid direct heat (e.g. gas hob). Splashes and grease can be removed easily with some water

Ceramics should not be fixed near open fire and places with heat more than 60°C. From heat sources of more than 60°C it is recommended to have a minimum distance of 80cm.

The wallpaper is waterproof and can easily be wiped down with a damp cloth. Use gentle household liquid detergents, soap solutions or similar. Then wash the wall surface with clean water. Attention: Avoid acetone, white spirit, solvents and direct heat!

Yes

The wallpaper is a PVC compound with a clear varnish surface

Pull the PVC surface from the support paper at the corner. The remaining paper layer can be an ideal under-surface for another wallpaper. Alternatively soak the paper layer with water and remove it with a spatula. 

To cut and apply the film you will need the following items:
-scissors
-pen
-ruler
-sharp knife (e.g. craft knife or similar)
-squeegee
-a clean cloth.

The film can be applied on almost any clean (dust and grease free) flat surfaces like walls, doors, appliances, furniture, bench tops, cupboards, windows and anything else you can think of. If applied on untreated wood like chipboard or plywood, we suggest you use a sealer or primer on the surface first. If unsure if the vinyl will adhere to the surface it's always best to order a small sample first and try it on the surface.

These surfaces are OK:
-wood
-worktops
-flat glass
-laminate
-flat wall tiles (not the grout)
-laminate
-veneers
-marble
-metal
-painted/plastered walls
-plastic
-mirror
-primed MDF
-Radiator covers

Avoid:
-brick wall
-stone wall
-embossed / bevelled glass
-dirty surfaces
-wet areas e.g showers
-fire surrounds
-damp surfaces
-raw MDF
-radiators
-floors 

Place the film in front of you with the printed grid system up. Use the grids for straight lines and mark with a pen your required shape. Allow for about 5cm extra on each side as it may be tricky to place the film exactly where you want it to be. The extra centimetres can easily be cut off with your sharp knife once the film is applied to your chosen surface.

1. Start by placing the film with the backing paper on the surface (the grid system is facing the item and the sticky back plastic pattern is facing you). Make sure that you have an overhang on all edges. 
2. Gently peel away a small part of one corner and pull the backing paper slowly downwards. Now place the exposed sticky film on the surface. Don't forget to allow for the overhang. Use your squeegee to smoothen down the film. Start from the centre and work your way out to each side in order to avoid air bubbles.
3. Now the sticky back plastic is stuck to a small part of the surface and won't glide around.Now slowly pull the backing paper with one hand and whilst you smooth the film on to the surface with your cloth or squeegee. This is the tricky part so it pays off to take extra care. If you make a mistake you can easily remove the film and start all over again. The idea is to pull the backing paper as you go and only expose a small part of the sticky back at the time. This is to allow for a smooth and bubble free surface and to avoid the sticky back to stick to unwanted surfaces and tangle.
4. When you are happy with the result, use your sharp knife and gently cut off the overhang.
Click here to view installation video.

Should there be any bubbles after applying the film you can either:
1. gently lift the film until you reach the bubble and start smoothing down the sticky back again using your squeegee; or
2. if close to the edge, try to smooth out the air using your squeegee; or
3. gently pop the bubble with a small sharp needle and smooth out the air through the hole.

Heat the film with a hairdryer on the coolest setting. Gently smooth the film and press it onto the surface as you warm it. Make sure you don't pull the film too hard whilst it's warm as it may overstretch. We recommend that you try it a few times with a sample or an off cut first until you get the technique right. You may want to use a glow or sock on your hand to protect your fingers from the heat.

Click here to view installation video.

It is always best to use a width of a film that is wider than your intended surface. If your surface is wider than the width of the roll you can use another length next to the first. In every possible way try to place the edge where it's least visible and exposed.  Make a 2-5mm overlap (like you do with wallpaper) to avoid that any of the backing surface is exposed. If the edges are likely to be exposed to wet conditions (e.g. in a bathroom or kitchen bench top) or accidentally to be touch very often, it is recommended to use a sealer. Overlaps with wood grain designs are not really visible to the eye. You don't need to think about matching the design. For glossy finishes it's important to try and match the design of the first length for optimal result. 

Yes you can. Sticky back plastic can take heat up to 75°C and is both water and alcohol resistant. It's possible to prepare food and bakings directly on the surface and it's easy to wipe clean with a damp cloth. Avoid food with strong colouring like turmeric and curry spices, grinded coffee, food colouring and tomato sauce. They may stain the surfaces in simliar ways they can do to painted surfaces. Treat the vinyl the same way a normal bench top should be treated. This mean don't put anything hot from the stove on the surface (a cuppa is normally fine), use cutting boards at all time and avoid scratching / moving heavy and sharp objects around on the surface.

There are two methods to do this:
1. Cut the vinyl in four pieces and apply around the stove top or sink. Make a small overlap where the pieces meet.
2. Cut a hole for the stove top or sink before you apply it. Make sure that the hole is slightly smaller so that you can trim off excess vinyl and get a perfect finish when applied. 

Yes you can. Use a hair dryer to heat up the vinyl so that you can shape it to the shape of the grooves. 

Yes you can order them from here.  It is important for us that you are completely satisfied with your film selection and the best way to find out which film is right for you is by viewing and testing it. We take extra care and try to make all our images look as close to the pattern as possible but there might be some variation in reality. Colours may also appear different between different devices. Our sample pieces are 14.5cm*20cm.

Since all our films are printed there might be a small colour variation between rolls, which is most of the time not noticeable. We recommend you to order all the film you require for the project at the same time to make sure they are sent from the same roll. 

Our films are available in 45cm, 67.5cm and 90cm wide rolls. 

Our sticky back plastic is available in 2m / 15m rolls. Some patterns are available in 1.5m and 2.1m instead of 2m and 10m instead of 15m.

Our static cling window film is available in 1.5m / 15m rolls. Our sun protection films are available in 2m rolls.

Sorry we can't split any rolls. Our warehouse is not clean enough to keep unwrapped rolls. In some cases you can combine two lengths but it's recommended to use one length wherever possible. 

Sorry we can't take any custom orders. All rolls come to us straight from the manufacturer in standard roll sizes.

We have requested wider rolls and medium long rolls from our manufacturer. At the moment they don't have any plans for any new roll sizes. 

All our films are approximately 0.1mm thick which is less than a writing paper.

Yes you can use it in places such as bathrooms, kitchen and laundry. We highly recommend that you seal the edges with silicone for extra protection. 

Although the product's purpose is for an indoor environment it can be used outdoor as well. Due to weather exposure from sun, wind and rain the expected life time is approximately one to three years. The material may fade and become brittle by time and it could potential lift from the surface if the edges are exposed to too much wetness. We recommend you to seal the edges if this is the case. 

d-c-fix® sticky back plastic can comfortably take temperatures between -10°C and 40°C and up to 75°C  for shorter periods of time. 

d-c-fix® can be cleaned with the most common non-abrasive cleaning products. We recommend you to clean the film with soapy water. Avoid using cleaning products containing chlorine that can bleach or discolour the vinyl. 

d-c-fix® is made of pvc and is therefore not fire safe, just like other plastic products.

d-c-fix® is made of pvc, monomeric calendered film. The adhesive is water based acrylic and solvent free. The backing paper is 60 g/m2 printed with a grid of centimeters

d-c-fix® is manufactured in Germany.

The d-c-fix® brand has been around since 1958. They have a long success story and are the global leader on the market. 

The d-c-fix® adhesive is solvent-free. It is free from heavy metals and is printed with water based ink. It is light fast to DIN EN ISO 105-B02 and abrasion and scouring resistant to DIN EN ISO 105-X12. If used as specified, it is even safe in children's room.

The backside colour of the sticky back plastic is usually white for the lighter vinyl (e.g. wood grain designs) and black for the darker vinyl. They are always single coloured. However if you intend to apply the sticky back plastic up on your windows the design might show through if it's in the light. Please note that black vinyl always have a black backside and white vinyl a white backside.

1. Measure the width of the surface including the edges you would like to cover. Add 6-8cm for the excess trim. This determines the width of the roll you require (eg 54cm wide surface + 8cm = 62cm. Use a 67.5cm roll)
2. Measure the length of all surfaces and add 8cm for each surface. This determines how many meters you need.
3. The standard sizes of the rolls are 2m and 15m. It is best to use one length for each surface. If you need to add two pieces then our wood grain designs will hide the joins the best. 

Here is a general guide of approximately how much vinyl the most common projects require:

Appliance: 2m/1.5m x 67.5cm
Fridge, dishwasher, washing machine

Bathroom Vanity: 2 x 45cm x 2m
Small single vanity with two doors and two side panels

Bench top: 67.5cm x 2m
Standard bench top 1.8m long x 60cm wide

Chest of Drawers: 3 x 45cm x 2m
3 large drawers outside dimensions max D: 40cm, H: 90cm, W: 90cm

Dining Table:  90cm x 2.1m
1.8m/2m long and up to 85cm wide

Kitchen Cupboards: 67.5cm x 15m
Medium sized: 2 tall cupboards, 6 small cupboards and 3 side panels and kick-boards

Start by gently pulling one corner as if you were removing a sticker. The process is easier if the film is heated with a hairdryer on its coolest setting. Any adhesive residue can be removed with ethanol or warm soapy water. The vinyl will come off fine most of the time without damaging the surface or leaving any marks behind. If the surface wasn't flat (e.g flaky paint), consist of particle board, paper, or paint that had not properly cured you may find that the some of the surface may come off. 
Click here to view a video tutorial.

To cut and apply the film you will need the following items:
-scissors
-pen
-ruler
-sharp knife (e.g. craft knife or similar)
-water spray bottle
-squeegee
-a clean cloth
-a cutting board and tape measure can also be handy to have.

Static film can only be applied to flat and smooth glass surfaces (including acrylic glass and mirrors). For satined and structured glass surfaces self-adhesive films are recommended. Make sure that the surface is completely dust and grease free and any stains or paint should be removed first. 

It's not recommended to apply the window film to a car window since these windows are often curved which may cause the film to fall down. 

Mark with a pen or whiteboard marker where to cut the film. This can easily be done on the backing paper. Then cut with scissors or use a straight edge and a craft knife. Make sure that the film is 2-5mm smaller than the glass.

1. Cut the film  to the desired dimensions. 
2. The glass surface should be free from grease and dust. Spray it sufficiently with a mixture of cold water and a few drops of dish soap.
3. Remove the film entirely from the backing paper. Start at one edge and place the film on the glass surface. Then let the rest of the film slowly slide on the glass. If necessary move the film carefully on the glass to its final position.
4. Use a squeegee to squeeze out the water between the film and the glass. Always work from the middle to the edges.
5. Remove remaining water on the film with a towel.

- When applied to a glass surface the space between the film and the window frame or rubber seal must be a minimum of 2mm at each side.
- Static films can only be applied to flat and smooth glass surfaces (including acrylic glass). For satined and structured glass surfaces self-adhesive films are recommended.
- If a static film is to be used after a while when it has not been applied on glass, it should be cleaned first. Therefore, carefully remove dirt and dust from the adherent side of the film with clear water.
- Static window films resist temperatures between -10 to +50°C.
- The static cling can easily be removed and reused. 

In this video you can see how static cling window film is applied:

Use the same method as for static cling window film application. The only difference is that once it's been applied you can't re-apply it again.

In this video you can see how self-adhesive window film is applied.

The window film should be applied to the inside of the window. On shower screens the film should be applied on the outside (the none water side).

Yes it can. For static cling window film, simply find a corner and pull off the film. It can then be re-used as many times as you like. For self-adhesive film you will have to pull slowly from one corner. Any glue residue can be cleaned off with soapy warm water and a cloth or methylated spirits. 

Many of the films can be positioned both ways around. Makes sure you check the last image in the product listing for each individual design.

No you can not use the window film inside the shower. Instead you can apply it on the outside of the shower glass. 

It's not recommended to use static cling window film outside because it may fall down due to wind and rain. 

Yes you can. Make sure there is no overlap. We recommend to build it up as panels and leave a few cm gaps between. That can create a very effective design. 

No, the rolls are not identical. The way the window film is manufactured there is no guarantee for the rolls to be identical. The film is manufactured in large rolls (several hundred meters at the time and over two meters wide). They are then cut to size. This means that the pattern repeat may start differently from one roll to another. 

All premium static cling window film give the same amount of privacy. They are none see through. If you are after a window film where you partly can see through then our window stripes may be a good option. There is no film that only give privacy one way. 

These are the most common reasons why the window film doesn't stay up:

1. The backing paper isn't removed. There is one even if it doesn't look like one. It's clear in colour.
2. The film is touching the edges somewhere. If it does, air will appear underneath and it will lose it's cling. It's safest to leave a minimum of a 2-5mm gap so it doesn't touch the window seal.
3. The window film is applied to a textured glass. If it is, air will come underneath and it will lose its cling. Instead use a self-adhesive film for those surfaces.
4. The glass has already got some kind of film on it (e.g. UV protection / tint etc).
5. Not enough water has been sprayed on the glass surface during application. The more the better to achieve a better cling. Then make sure you squeeze out as much water as possible and let the sun burn off the rest. (Maybe keep the window closed for a day or so until the sun has done its part)
6. The wrong side of the window film is facing the window. Make sure it's the cling side. It's nice and smooth.
7. The windows are not properly cleaned before application. Make sure they are cleaned from grease and dust. This goes for the film too if it's being reapplied or has been applied to a not fully clean window.

Frost is plain white and Milky has no colour and is textured. Both are privacy films and provide 95% UV protection. You can see the difference in this video

Sorry we don't.

Sorry we don't.

Yes they can. Just follow the instructions for installation. Any future condensation will then appear on top of the window film instead instead of the window.

Our Tinted Film is the best option. Please be aware that at daytime when it's lighter outside it blocks the views so that people can't see in. However if you have the lights on at night and it's lighter inside then people can see in.

The sun protection film is a see through film that is designed to decrease the heat of the room and block out the UV rays. It is not completely clear so you do notice that it is a film and the view gets slightly blurry. It doesn't block out any unwanted observers.
The tinted film also blocks out the UV rays and heat. At daytime when it's lighter outside it blocks the views so that people can't see in. However if you have the lights on at night and it's lighter inside then people can see in. The film makes the room a bit darker.
Use the sun protection film for: see through, block out UV rays and heat Use the tinted film for: privacy and removing glare, heat and UV rays

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